At tourist spots throughout the city, travelers
were similarly nonchalant. Bangkok's legendary Khaosan Road was
crowded with backpackers. “Knowing Thai people, I wasn't expecting
an uprising,” said Jozef Sint Jago, from Amsterdam . “I'm not
concerned at all.”
In MBK Center, a huge shopping mall in Siam Square, John O'Hara,
of County Mayo, Ireland , said he had just arrived in Bangkok
with friends. He said the coup on Sept. 19 hadn't forced them
to change their travel plans. “It didn't affect us at all. On
the news, it looked bad, but it's not.”
Coup? What coup? That seems to be the attitude among travelers
and travel professionals as the recent political turmoil in Thailand
appears to have had little or no effect on tourism there. After
all, the embattled prime minister, who had led a grudgingly accepted
social order campaign in 2001 that mandated a 1 a.m. closing time
for most of Bangkok's bars and nightclubs, was not very popular
among the city's residents.
In fact, when tanks rolled into Bangkok, Thais presented soldiers
with flowers and candy, and many troops gladly posed for photographs
with foreigners. In Phuket, unperturbed beachgoers sipped “coup
cocktails” at beachside bars. And if the opening of a new international
airport outside Bangkok on Sept. 28 is any indication, the provisional
rulers seem intent on making sure that the tourism industry —
which Thai officials say draws more than 11 million tourists a
year — continues apace. The Associated Press has reported that
the $3.8 billion, six-million-square-foot airport — meant to be
the centerpiece of Mr. Thaksin's political legacy — can handle
76 flights an hour and 45 million passengers a year.
Of course, there are some very real concerns. Critics worry about
the temporary suspension of certain civil liberties around the
country, in particular, curbs placed on public gatherings, political
activity and the local news media. The United States State Department
and ministries in other countries in Australia and Britain have
encouraged travelers to exercise extra caution.
Tour operators and hotels, however, report few cancellations.
Luxury-tour operators like Abercrombie & Kent and Cox &
Kings, for instance, said that none of their clients had chosen
to change their plans.
“There's no story,” said Pamela Lassers, director of media relations
for Abercrombie & Kent, which offers personalized itineraries
to and around Thailand. “The clients who are visiting have basically
been completely unaffected.”
Reports from her company's office in Bangkok, she said, described
images of solidarity rather than turmoil, with thousands of Thais
showing up at the royal palace each day wearing yellow shirts
and yellow ribbons to signify their support for the king. The
king's approval of Mr. Thaksin's ouster was widely reported in
the news media.
“Our clients are saying that seeing regular people coming to
the palace and getting their pictures taken with the soldiers
is just the most reassuring thing that they could have seen,”
Ms. Lassers said.
Cox & Kings received similar reports from its offices in
Thailand. “I think last week there was some anxiety,” said Nathaniel
Waring, president of Cox & Kings, in an interview a week after
the coup. But, after those first days, he said, it became clear
that hotels would not change their policies, transfers would not
be affected, and the airport would remain open.
“People are very understanding that things like this can happen,”
Mr. Waring said. “I think, over all, Thailand does have an image
of peace and stability, whether that's Buddhism, the fact that
the hotels are so great, the service is renowned, the Thai people
are so friendly.”
But that doesn't mean that travelers were not without practical
concerns during the aftermath of the coup. Jim Mathewson, for
instance, was scheduled to leave Bangkok for California two days
after the coup. Like many people familiar with the situation,
what he worried about most was not the threat of violence, but
his flight home.
“My thought was that they might close the airport, which they
didn't,” said Mr. Mathewson, executive director and co-founder
of the Tanager Foundation, a United States -based nonprofit group
working in Thailand to improve drinking water there. “Or, even
if they didn't close the airport, they might close the routes
to get back into Bangkok.”
But even those fears proved unfounded. Everything at the airport
was business as usual. “In the entrance to the airport there were
maybe a few more armed military guys with rifles, but they were
relaxed,” Mr. Mathewson said. “They were almost just strolling
around. There was no tension anywhere.”
Like air travel, cruise dockings are similarly unaffected. “There
doesn't seem to be a resistance or certainly a lack of interest
among potential passengers or passengers in the region due to
the coup,” said Brian Major, director of public relations for
Cruise Lines International Association, a group that represents
19 cruise lines, accounting for 97 percent cruise capacity in
North America. By contrast, he said, cruise lines he spoke with
that have ports of call in Thailand — including Crystal Cruises,
Seabourn Cruise Line, Holland America Line and Princess Cruises
— cited more concern for places like Indonesia because of safety
issues.
INTERACTIVE travel sites on the Web, like tripadvisor.com , saw
an early flurry of activity by anxious travelers on their Thailand-themed
public forums, wondering if they should change or cancel their
plans. But responses from the ground were reassuring, with consistent
reports of on-schedule flights and peace in the streets, from
Bangkok to Phuket.
There was also a good deal of criticism in the forums of the
way the coup had been portrayed by the international news media.
Many respondents encouraged worried travelers to pay little heed
to what one blogger called an “extravagant exaggeration of the
current situation by certain parts of the media.”
But some frequent visitors — particularly those like Mr. Mathewson,
who lives near Reno, Nev. — who have fallen in love with the country's
shrinking unspoiled areas, said they almost wished the recent
developments were less encouraging to tourism.
“I would actually prefer a bad spin on it so fewer people would
go there,” Mr. Mathewson said, laughing. |